Ciudad de México, México
November 1, 2024
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TL;DR

Mexico City isn’t a place I’d choose to live, but with its rich culture, wild flavors, chaotic vibe, and unforgettable people, it can offer a truly memorable stay.

A calm sunrise scene in Xochimilco, with people kayaking through calm waters surrounded by mist and silhouetted trees in the background.
Is traveling about new experiences? New sights? New flavors? Or is it about connecting in a way that lets you see the world and yourself in a new light? I don’t know. Maybe it’s just about kayaking at dawn and smelling fresh animal manure that once reminded you of home but now will remind you of something else

I can’t pinpoint exactly when someone first mentioned Mexico City during my trip, but I do know that the name kept popping up throughout my journey in Latin America. The most memorable moment was in Buenos Aires when I was talking about my “honeymoon phase” with the city. In response to my honeymoon phase, someone told me how much they loved Mexico City and said, “If you love Buenos Aires, you’ll love CDMX.”

Now, I’m not usually one to take other people’s word for things, nor am I someone who’s easily influenced. But after hearing about Mexico City so many times, I just had to come see it for myself.

Another big reason I was determined to visit was that the last time I left Mexico, it was just one day before El Día de la Independencia. Ever since, I’ve been dreaming of experiencing that incredible event firsthand.

Heading linkCulture

A vibrant mural depicting an intense battle between an armored Spanish conquistador and an indigenous warrior dressed in feathered armor, symbolizing the clash of cultures during the Spanish conquest of Mexico.
La Conquista de México by Jorge González Camarena

Given how ancient and enormous Mexico City is, it’s no shocker how much culture it packs. Personally, I’ve been fascinated by Mesoamerican civilizations since I was a kid. The Mayans, in particular, have always held a special place in my heart. So, it’s no surprise that the National Museum of Anthropology left me absolutely mesmerized. I’m not exactly sure why (maybe my childhood obsession with The Road to El Dorado), but those ceremonial low-relief Mayan carvings really captivated me. The jewelry, the clothing, the facial expressions, the symbolic objects, and the depictions of rituals almost seemed to come alive on that limestone canvas.

And then there’s Teotihuacan, where you’re transported to the past once again. While the site has its own archaeological challenges and the pyramids there didn’t impress me as much as, say, Chichen Itza, there’s something undeniably special about standing in the middle of the Plaza de la Luna, trying to imagine tens of thousands of people gathered there. The scale of it all is incredible. In fact, standing there, I got so swept up in the moment that the next day, I had to re-watch Apocalypto.

If Mesoamerican civilizations aren’t your thing, don’t worry, as there’s an abundance of museums. While some of them, in my opinion, are way overhyped and clearly catering to the tourist crowds (cough Frida Kahlo Museum cough), others pleasantly surprised me. I’m looking at you, Soumaya, hiding in plain sight with your free admission. The point is, there’s a variety of museums to choose from, and in some of them, you can easily lose track of time.

And then there’s the city itself. I still can’t decide if Zócalo (Plaza de la Constitución) was more impressive when I was standing there with hundreds of thousands of people shouting, or when I was wandering around alone, soaking in its immense scale. Exploring the streets and alleys of the Centro Histórico can get a bit overwhelming at times, but even then it’s still a lot of fun. Then there’s UNAM, Coyoacán, and countless other spots where the vibe shifts entirely, making it feel like you’re experiencing a completely different city.

While it wasn’t my much-anticipated KeMonito, I was still entertained by this brutal and fearless dive

Finally, if none of the above sounds interesting, I doubt you could turn down the colorful costumes, dramatic showdowns, and high-flying stunts of lucha libre. Even though I’m not the typical target for this kind of show, I couldn’t help but admire the crowd’s energy as they cheered on their favorite masked heroes and villains. It’s fun watching everyone have a great time. And hey, if even that doesn’t win over your stone-cold heart, I’ll leave you with Plaza Garibaldi. You can dodge all the mariachis, head over to República de Honduras, and take in the statues along the way, eventually reaching the pharmacy with the legendary Doctor Simi in his mariachi outfit. A prescription straight from the heart of Mexico.

Anyway, my goal here isn’t to play tour guide or list every place I thought was good. It’s just to appreciate how culturally rich Mexico City is and how many different brushes, colors, and textures it offers for you to paint your own unique, warm, and sentimental memory canvas.

Heading linkFood

A close-up of grilled Mexican street corn on a stick, seasoned with chili powder and spices
Who will win the great battle of the toilet? Me or this bad boy?

Before I’m crucified by Mexicans, let me clarify: when I was in El Salvador chatting with a random group of travelers, they asked me where I enjoyed the food most during my journey. Without missing a beat, I said Argentina. Then I paused, thought a little deeper, and after a few seconds, I shouted, “Oh, wait, also Mexico!”

Now, before diving into my food experience, I have to get a few things out of the way:

A close-up of three tacos de canasta (basket tacos) on an orange plate with a partially eaten taco held above the plate
Tacos de canasta, a.k.a. the tacos that reminded me I’m still mixing up my Spanish numbers

My first impression when arriving in Mexico City was that the street food culture is thriving here. It’s one of the top things I’d recommend exploring while you’re in town.

I believe I ate at a healthy variety of spots, from random abuelas selling tacos de canasta out of their baskets to fancy restaurants with impressive views (but less impressive food) and everything in between. I didn’t discriminate, I tried it all, from chips covered in spicy sauces and gummies to tacos made from parts I’d never eat by choice.

During my travels, there probably wasn’t another place where I tried so many random and unexpected things. Naturally, not everything was as good as I hoped. For example, I was excited to try dishes like chile en nogada or mole, expecting to have my mind blown, but in reality, it wasn’t quite what I had imagined. But that doesn’t matter because that’s part of immersing yourself in a different cuisine.

There are hyped things you expect to love but don’t, and then there are dishes that sound unremarkable but create some of the most memorable experiences. It’s not just about the food, it’s the environment, the people, the culture, and the shared moments that make each meal unforgettable.

So, after all those new experiences, you want to know what my favorite dish was? My Mexican friends will probably laugh at me holding their tacos con lengua, maybe even give me confused looks (which actually happened at a party), but my top dish was… Tacos de Chuleta from Taquería El Progreso. Maybe it reminded me of homemade pizza in some weird way, or maybe the meat reminded me of home in Europe. Or maybe I was just really happy in that moment. Whatever the reason, that was my peak food moment.

Two tacos topped with salsa and nopales. The taco on the left is taco de chuleta, and the taco on the right is campechano. Lime wedges sit on top for garnish
It doesn’t look like much, but that taco de chuleta on the left from Taquería El Progreso made some real progress in my heart

Aside from the previously mentioned papas fritas with salsa and gummies, I was introduced to one of the weirdest sweet candies I’ve ever tried. And get this, you can actually buy just one candy at a time from a random street vendor. Mind blown.

The craziness doesn’t stop at the food, though. I realized pretty quickly that Mexico’s love for spices, colors, and unexpected combinations stretches way beyond just what’s on the plate. From mysteriously blue Azulitos covered in spices that make you look borderline creepy as you politely try to clean the glass rim, to Micheladas that combine ingredients you’d never expect, the surprises never end. Honestly, some things would have to be force-fed to me, but that’s all part of the fun.

By now, it might sound like I didn’t enjoy the food or drinks, but trust me, that’s not the case. I ate so many delicious things that expanded my view of Mexican cuisine beyond just tacos and quesadillas (oh, and by the way, sorry, Mexico City, but a quesadilla does need queso). I love how they’ve preserved their culinary traditions, and the street food culture has a cozy charm I really appreciate. Even the crazy candies and cocktails have their place in the experience.

Mexico, keep it spicy, keep it colorful, and keep it weird… never change.

Heading linkLife

View of Palacio de Bellas Artes, a grand white building with a colorful domed roof, surrounded by a large plaza
Palacio de Bellas Artes from Finca Don Porfirio

Just like I mentioned with Buenos Aires, you have to understand that Mexico City is massive, and the differences between neighborhoods, even ones that aren’t far apart, can be huge. What I’m writing here is mostly based on my time living in Roma and Centro, with some random trips to explore other parts of the city. I feel like I need to mention this because the way I felt in places like Centro and Coyoacán were totally different. There’s no single “Mexico City vibe”, so don’t let my biased and very specific experience sway you too much.

Typically, I’m the kind of person who doesn’t get headaches or any of that. But the day after I arrived in Mexico City, I started feeling a light headache. Since I was already feeling some cold symptoms from traveling, I thought, “Eh, I probably just got sick after a long trip and being around so many people.” Those symptoms disappeared after a few days. But then, the headaches came back. At that point, I thought, “Oh, it’s probably the altitude.” I’ve never lived at 2,000 meters, and my body was probably still adjusting (I really felt it in the gym when I thought I was going to die after a light session).

After a few weeks, I figured my body had adjusted. But I’d still get these random, light headaches. One that sticks in my memory was while I was walking to the gym, with constant traffic flowing around me. After 30 minutes of walking, the headache kicked in. Every person smoking, every garbage truck tossing fumes into the air, irritated me more and more.

At that point, I started mentally associating these headaches with the city’s air quality. I’d read about it before arriving, and locals had mentioned things like their eyes burning after rainstorms and so on, so it wasn’t too hard to just end up with that conclusion and call it a day. Now, I’m not ruling out altitude adjustment or a placebo effect from hearing those stories, but at that point, it was too invested in the air quality theory. It didn’t help that I got sick a few times during my stay, adding to the mix of many possible reasons. But the fact remains that, as someone who rarely gets headaches, I had quite a few light ones in Mexico City.

A patch of lavender and rosemary growing by the sidewalk in Mexico City
Lavender and rosemary next to the sidewalk weren’t something I expected to see, but they brought a smile to my face as I rushed to the gym

Was this something that stopped me from enjoying my time? Not really. But did it make walking next to traffic or dodging smokers more intense? Absolutely. There were definitely times I was silently begging for the generator spewing fumes next to me to just stop.

Honestly, I’m very curious to do a more controlled experiment next time, like bringing an air quality monitor and tracking my symptoms in a more organized manner in order to figure out if it’s the altitude, air quality, or me having a very strong imagination.

Because of these headaches, or maybe the placebo of thinking it was the air, I started searching for parks like never before. Which brings me to my next topic: green spaces.

I lived in two very different neighborhoods: the much-loved, café-filled Roma Norte and the more chaotic Centro. While living in Roma Norte, Bosque de Chapultepec pretty quickly became my favorite oasis. The reasons are simple: a) it’s huge, so you can always find a quiet spot, and b) you can lie on the grass and forget you’re in one of the busiest cities in the world. Most importantly (and probably thanks to the placebo effect), it felt like I was breathing in pure, fresh air that my body desperately needed.

There were other parks where I made some cozy memories, but Chapultepec was the highlight in Roma. However, things changed drastically when I moved to Centro. Normally, I’m not someone who needs a park in my life, but living in Centro made me crave one like never before. The closest “park” was Alameda Central, but it was closed most of the time I was there, and even when it was open, it couldn’t provide what my heart was longing for. Instead, I adapted to the concrete jungle and found my go-to spot near Plaza de la República. While not exactly green, it had a weird connection to my hometown, making it cozy in its own way.

A festive street in Barrio Chino with colorful umbrellas and red lanterns hanging above a crowd.
My lovely Barrio Chino with its very fitting bachata and reggaeton music

Speaking of places that reminded me of home, there’s no spot quite like Parque Nacional Viveros de Coyoacán. Lying on the grass, chatting, and observing nature there made me feel like I was back home. It was like one of those perfect summer days: not too hot, with cool grass, trees surrounding you like protective walls, clouds that look like ever-changing art, and a gentle breeze that makes you forget time exists. It’s not a super fancy park, but that’s what made it so inviting and reminded me of home.

Another thing I kept reading over and over when researching Mexico City was the noise. It was described as a place where the noise is unlike anywhere else. Honestly, from my personal experience, it wasn’t as bad as I was expecting. Sure, Centro was worse, especially since I lived near a Chinese restaurant that loved blasting loud bachata music (so you can sensually enjoy your sweet and sour chicken), but it still wasn’t unbearable when I closed my windows. Now, you might be thinking, “Oh wow, obviously you don’t notice the noise because you’ve barricaded yourself in your apartment...” But to that, I’d say, well yeah, obviously! I’m living in the center of a massive city, what else am I supposed to expect? Another reason I wasn’t too bothered is probably because I always sleep with earplugs. There were a few nights when I thought my building might take off from the sound of the insane electricity generator, but most nights were pretty normal.

Of course, if you walk around Centro, you’re going to hear a ton of noise - people are out there battling for your attention with whatever vocal cords they’ve got left. I couldn’t live with that level of noise all day, every day, but walking through it a few times a week is kind of entertaining. It’s like a contest to see who loves you more by shouting louder. Same with navigating the sea of people, it’s fun for short bursts, but after a while, it can get old real quick if you have to deal with it daily.

A bustling pedestrian street in Mexico City’s historic center, filled with people walking between historic buildings under a partly cloudy sky.
Navigating the sea of people and sounds in El Centro

Now, I can’t talk about the city without mentioning the joke I had running in my head the whole time. After traveling around Latin America, I stopped taking hot water for granted. It became this nice-to-have thing. So, coming to Mexico City, I thought, “Okay, surely here I won’t have to worry about this.” Or will I?

Three days without electricity and five without hot water reminded me that nothing’s guaranteed. I’m not bringing this up to collect virtual pity. I’m mentioning it because I found it kind of hilarious. For a week, I watched construction workers trying to fix the power line that was the reason I had no electricity. Maybe it’s my European mindset or the fact that even in remote parts of Colombia, the power was usually back in eight hours, but for some reason, my brain couldn’t process why it took a whole week to fix it in such a city. I don’t hold any grudges, though. Aside from dancing in the shower to not get cold and choking on generator fumes, I had another funny memory I built in Mexico City.

I feel like up to this point, most of what I’ve said has had a bit of a negative tone. However, being the huge metropolis that it is, Mexico City obviously comes with some big perks. One of the less obvious ones (or at least something I didn’t think much about while living in a much smaller town) is the fact that, because of the sheer number of people living there, it’s way easier to find people you can vibe with.

While it’s clear when you think about it in theory, what’s not so obvious is just how much it’ll improve your quality of life. I mean, we spend a good chunk of time with other people, whether it’s family, friends, colleagues, significant others, you name it. While some of those people, you can’t exactly pick, some of them you can. Mexico City’s population is so huge that the odds of meeting people who are as weird as you go way up and will most likely make your stay much more memorable.

Another somewhat obvious perk when we consider these massive cities is the amount of entertainment. Mexico City has it all: hipster cafés, dog-friendly cafés, art galleries, you name it. The nightlife is especially vibrant in places like Roma or Condesa. But honestly, you don’t need to stay in those foreigner-heavy areas to have a good time. Locals are super friendly, and you’ll definitely meet some cool people. Just remember, you’re in Mexico - don’t try to change their culture to match yours.

Lastly, I won’t dive too deep into the food scene (since I already talked about it extensively), but let’s just say it’s diverse, colorful, and most likely going to add spice to your quality of life.

Heading linkMy Take

A scenic view of hot air balloons floating over the ancient site of Teotihuacán, with sunlight casting shadows over the lush green landscape and pyramids below.
Becoming Tláloc for a second to look over my people in Teotihuacán

My take on Mexico City is definitely biased, and I want that to be very clear. While there were a lot of things I missed or didn’t love, I met some of the most wonderful people. If I hadn’t met those people, my trip would still have been positive thanks to Mexico City’s rich history and incredible food scene, but honestly, my overall sentiment about the city would be very different.

Because the people I met had such an impact on my time, I want to start there. My first observation about the people? Their friendliness. Granted, most, if not all, of the people I met were relatively young, so I can only speak from that (once again biased) experience.

Another thing that hit me over time was how patriotic and tradition-oriented many people were. They take pride in their heritage, they honor their ancestors, they celebrate their culture, they carry on their traditions. I remember standing in the rain during El Grito, surrounded by tens of thousands of people singing, chanting, and sharing their umbrellas with strangers. I also remember people sharing stories with me about the Aztecs and expressing genuine pride in having that connection to their history. And then... there was a lively, lighthearted debate at a bar about the Spaniards and their gold.

What’s more Mexican than standing in the rain for hours among tens of thousands of Mexicans, all to shout “¡Viva México!” for three minutes? El Peje, whenever you’re ready to send me my Mexican passport, you know where to find me

I also noticed how much honesty seemed rooted in everyday interactions. Maybe it’s my European brain, but seeing big crowds standing by a street food vendor, ordering, eating, ordering more, talking – and then, at the end, the vendor asking them what they ordered felt strange. I know it’s a small detail, but I believe that sense of trust and honesty in these simple daily exchanges reflects something about the culture.

Most of my interactions were with what I’d call “simple” people. And by “simple,” I don’t mean that in any insulting way. I like to think of myself as a simple person, and I tend to connect with people who share that quality. “Simple” probably means different things to different people. For me, a good example would be people I feel comfortable being straightforward with, without any pretense. But maybe it’s less about the people and more about the environment.

Now, back to the city itself. Like I mentioned, it’s massive, and each neighborhood can feel like a whole different city. Some neighborhoods, like Coyoacán, I might (big might) consider living in, and others, I wouldn’t want to spend more than a few minutes in. I mean, with a place this big, it’s very natural. But, overall, it’s clear - it’s not my city and if it weren’t for the people I met, I’d probably have no plans to come back.

However, because of those people, this city will always mean something special to me, and I’ll probably, with some bias, recommend visiting it to others. Maybe that’s exactly what happened with everyone who kept recommending Mexico City to me throughout my travels. Maybe it was never really about the city itself, but the people and the memories.

Heading linkStatement Rain

The iconic Central Library at UNAM in Mexico City, featuring its illuminated mural filled with intricate symbols and historic imagery against a twilight sky.
Encompassing the past in order to spark a fire in the future

🟩

— The National Museum of Anthropology is a must-see. I think it’s one-of-a-kind when it comes to anthropology, and even though I wouldn’t consider myself a big anthropology enthusiast, the experience is incredible, especially when visiting Mexico.

— Chapultepec Park was one of my favorite spots. It’s so massive that you’ll likely find a peaceful patch of grass just for yourself. More importantly, it has hidden gems like the Dolores Cárcamo Museum that are less frequented by tourists but still feature beautiful art.

— One of my best moments was in Parque Nacional Viveros de Coyoacán. Maybe it was the people, maybe I was tired of the city air, or maybe it was the simplicity that reminded me of home. Either way, there was something special about it. If you’re around Coyoacán and have some time, keep it in mind.

— I can’t describe how cool it is that in parts of Mexico City, lavender and rosemary grow along the sidewalks.

— If you want to enjoy an impressive view of Palacio de Bellas Artes, head to Finca Don Porfirio coffee shop. You’ll enter through Sears, then take the elevator (or the stairs if you’re like me) up to the 8th floor.

— Experiencing El Grito is something I would wish for anyone visiting in September. The fireworks, the show, and the atmosphere with so many people were amazing. A few things to keep in mind: if you want to get closer to the president, arrive very early (at least 4 hours in advance). If you’re prone to crowd anxiety, think twice, as it can get intense when the show ends and everyone starts moving. I even saw people fainting (or trying to hack the system to get out of the crowd faster).

🟥

— The biggest downside of CDMX for me was the air pollution. I’m not sure if it was partly a placebo effect, but I don’t think I’ve felt it like this in any other place.

— Staying in El Centro, I really missed having more green spaces around.

🟨

— I didn’t enjoy the Frida Kahlo Museum as much as I’d hoped. If you’re a huge fan of Kahlo, it might be worth it, but for me, it felt like a tourist trap trying to squeeze every bit out of her legacy.

— It’s interesting how, even though weed is prohibited, there are spots where people openly gather for that purpose. In a way, it’s fascinating to see the community that forms around it.

— I lost count of how many times I got soaked in the rain while in CDMX. I don’t know if it was just the timing of my stay, but the rain often came out of nowhere in the evening, just as I was walking around.

Siempre recordar, nunca inrecordar

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